Walking Home

reveries of an amateur long-distance hiker

May 25

May 25th, 2016

May 25

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St. Ursanne to Saignelégier 28km
Mud, but pure pastoral beauty. Today’s walk was a little tough toward the end– just need to get back into shape–but beautiful in an understated way. This region is steep, but not stupendous, an agricultural area with lots of muddy pasture crossings. The path followed Les Doubs River upstream across wildflower spring fields through a narrow valley. Some times it was clearly Switzerland, but others could have been part of the Appalachian trail. It was a walker’s path, bringing small technical challenges — avoiding hidden mud holes, sliding up and down muddy slopes–but also bringing the small joys: flowers, fast-moving streams and the occasional small falls, moss covered rocks and trees, and of course silent, ancient forests. This should be a good trek.

T. Hugh Crawford

May 24

May 25th, 2016

May 24

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Porrentruy to St. Ursanne, 16
Not an ambitious first day– getting our legs back and learning to navigate in a new country. Did climb up an over a ridge or two, but nothing difficult. It was fun to watch Bennett note the little differences in the world– the steep pastures, the heavy cow-bells, the design of the houses. For me, what was most noticeable compared to Spain was the move from stone to wood building. The classic Swiss masonry first story with large wood overhanging second and third stories. Beautiful, but so different from the world I walked the last six weeks. One other difference, perhaps related to the weather, but also likely a cultural difference is how quiet the towns are. In Spain, when you walk into a town, the cafes are open and people sit out with coffee, beer, tapas, and conversation, a certain liveliness. So far (and we have only seen a little corner) the towns feel almost empty — deserted–on arrival. It is early in the tourist season, and these are small towns, but at times it feels eerie. Still Bennett and I kept each other company and had a great walk.

T. Hugh Crawford

May 23

May 25th, 2016

May 23

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Hoping it is not a harbinger of what is to come, it rained hard all night and through the first part of the morning. Certain to be some muddy trails, but today is a day to read and write, waiting for Bennett to arrive late this evening. Wandered the town a bit, stopped by information center and Migros grocery store. Spent the afternoon in a bar reading Bruno Latour and working on an essay, then the evening watching the people stream off each successive train until the one bringing Bennett arrived. I had not seen him since we had hiked part of the PCT in August of 2015. Obviously a joyful reunion, with non-stop talking.

T. Hugh Crawford

May 22

May 25th, 2016

May 22

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The Santiago de Compostela streets were nearly empty, passing only some last-night partiers who now were early-morning stragglers. The airport bus rolled down quiet streets, retracing much of the path I had walked almost two weeks earlier to finish the primary path of the Camino Frances. The intervening time alternated between the hectic–late night music and food–and peaceful relaxation, backpackless, walking short distances to the beach, sunrise, or sunset. Santiago’s airport is new and open, but lined with weary peregrinos, all making their way back to daily life. I fly to Basel, Switzerland and on to Porrentruy where Bennett and I will commence the next trek: the Trans-Swiss Trail. A quiet day of travel, plane, train, some walking around Porrentruy, then settling into the Hotel de Gare. In this part, rural Switzerland, there are few people who speak English, and my French is abysmal, so it took a lot of good will and my very best miming to secure a room, and settle in for the night. A well travelled day.

T. Hugh Crawford