Sep 15 day 15 Pataua South to McLeod Bay 29 km 7:15-4:00

A day of different surfaces and perspectives. Was supposed to start out by traversing a mud flat, but would have had to wait until noon, so I took the long way around the estuary on a road. Then up and over Kauri Mountain and down to Ocean Beach, a place I had visited ten years ago on another trip. Long morning walking the beach (including a ford that was mid-thigh deep (and cold). The weather was strange, cloudy, windy, cold, then sunny and hot. Kept having to stop to add or remove layers. At the end of Ocean Beach rose a set of steep mountains, so the afternoon was a ridge hike, first up a very steep sheep path, then into the woods for a lot of up and down. Much of the steep part had wooden/gravel steps, a mixed blessing. Got to the highest part and missed a track sign (was only written on one of the plastic triangles with a sharpie). As I was climbing, the trail got narrower and more vertical. Soon I was doing serious rock climbing still carrying my backpack and poles. Turned out I was on a spur to the top of a narrow rock peak–the kind that make you tremble when you stand up. Never should have been climbing that with full gear. At the top, it was clear the only return was the way I had climbed up, and after some stressful moments, I regained the regular path and my balance. The rest of the trail was up and down until it dumped me into Urquhart bay (after a least a thousand steps). Followed the road over to McLeod bay, looking for some sort of campground or motel. Stopped to talk to a school bus driver who had just finished her route. She had found a budgie which she had in a box. She and her husband used to run a B&B in McLeod Bay, so she invited me to sleep in her basement. After tea, her husband came in, some mixed signals between them and I soon found myself out looking for a place to stay. There were some B&B s but none took Visa and my cash was short. Ended up sitting on a bench near the bay making ramen noodles, waiting for the sun to go down so I could pitch a tent in the park and not be noticed. On the upside, I was able to arrange with Steve Martinovitch for a boat ride across the bay tomorrow morning.

Sep 14 day 14 Ngunguru Village to Pataua South 32 km 8:45-4:00

Not a particularly eventful day, though the weather was perfect, nearly cloudless. First half was a long road walk out of Ngunguru past the Hugh Crawford Reserve– about 15 km. not a lot of traffic and the countryside was pretty, but also boring. Saw some good livestock including some amazing bulls. There is a bird always out in the bush whose call sounds exactly like R2-D2. And there are these ducks who are always in pairs, but don’t really look alike. One has a while head and an often shrill call, feathers smooth with a russet chest. It’s partner is a fuzzy black critter with a coarse, loud call. They tend to hang out in the mud puddles in pasture land, and spend most of their time yelling at each other. You almost never see one alone, always paired. The middle of the day brought the only bush hike, which had its bright points, but was only 4 km and the entry and exit were through recent tree harvest slash. I did get to ford two rivers, and the woods in the middle were wonderfully peaceful. There I met three women hikers who had spent much of their lives walking the tracks all over NZ– were very knowledgable about how the TA was put together, and were completely engaging. The last third of the day was also road walking. I hope one day the TA Trust finds a way onto the farmland and get the trail off the road. My knees were huge at the end of today, probably need to go slow tomorrow. Got to Pataua South by crossing a footbridge across an estuary where a very old man was fishing, had a bucket full of many different fish. Arrived finally at the Treasure Island campground, running straight into Tim, the good natured proprietor on his trusty ATV. The place was deserted except for one other hiker. Tim directed me to a beautiful picnic area plateau– perfect grass and incredible view of the ocean. Got a hot shower, cooked dinner and settled in for the night.

Sep 13 day 13 free camp on Morepork Trail to Ngunguru Village 35 km 7:00-4:30

A day of big vistas. The morning hike out the Morepork trail was uneventful, but full of twists and turns, quick changing environment and had to concentrate hard on following path and finding the orange plastic triangles that serve as the blazes for the TA. Even with close attention, I missed the last turn, and had to cut across a farmers field, maneuvering over electric fences and around a herd of steers– poor guys, soon on their way to a burger joint near you. After coming down off the ridge, I first followed out the Whananaki estuary, crossing a long, narrow, old wooden bridge. I walked slowly and carefully, only to turn at the end to see a pack of young boys flying across it on bicycles — youth and fearlessness. Then I found myself hiking a series of tracks that ducked in and out of all these magnificent sandy coves, many with beautiful or just sort of funky beach houses. Stopped at the Matapouri General Store for some lunch and a cup of coffee to gird myself for the last 13 k in the run through an old forest track to Ngunguru. Rewarded myself for back to back 30+days with a stay in a motel I really could not afford but also didn’t want to pass up. Will try to sleep in a bit because tomorrow starts with a long road walk (brutal on old knees).

Sep 12 day 12 free camp near Waikare to free camp on Morepork Trail 32 km 6:30-4:30

Although I thought I pitched my tent past the last house, there was one more just across the stream and, as it was Friday night, they had a small party, with cars coming and going until after midnight. Needless to say, I did not sleep well. Really was not sure if my tent was visible from the road. Got up at daybreak, broke camp as silently as I could so as not to disturb the dogs, crossed the ford, and was putting on my shoes at the other side when I heard the cars start up. I crossed the stile into the woods just a bit before they passed– did not really want to explain where I had camped as it probably was on their land. First part of hike was fun but hard– 4k straight up a stream. Once again it felt like the movie The River Queen. Then, as the TE so often does, I ended up with a whole lot of road walking, linking up the different forest tracks. Was not a lot of fun since there was Saturday traffic and the roads were narrow. Had lunch at Helena Bay– there were three elderly couples there having a picnic and had a good chat with them. Then walked past Teal bay, both very beautiful spots. The mid afternoon hike was on a gravel walkway past some magnificent pastureland with the ocean in the distance. Later in the day, I got to the next woodland trail, Morepork trail (think it is because they have wild pigs there) hiked in few k and pitched my tent in the woods, far from any cars tonight. Good day, but tired feet. Crawled into my sleeping bag to get warm at about 6:00. Read a brief while, and went straight to sleep.

Sep 11 day 11 Opua to Waikare 16 km (12 by boat) 5:00 pm-6:15

Today was the first true rest day. Slept in at the Opua Motel, a really wonderful place, read, wrote, relaxed, and rested some strained knees. Resupplied at the Opua Store, a classic place which also had coffee and assortment of ever-present meat pies. Went to sit by the harbor and even though the sun was shining, it was cool and windy. John, at the Cruising (yacht) Club invited me in, so I spent the afternoon in comfort reading and writing on the couch with the harbor spread out in front of me, Marie came in and opened the bar just in time for me to have a pint and talk with a boating couple from KeriKeri. Dusty, the grizzled water taxi pilot showed promptly at five to take me over to Waikara, which is only accessible at high tide. On the way he told me of his plans to sell his business and next summer mountain bike the Rockies from Banf Canada to Mexico. The entrance to Waikare was a narrow channel winding through trees and finally bumping against a clay cliff where I not so nimbly jumped ashore and gave quick thanks to Dusty who was heading back out with the tide. I got ashore near 5:30 and made my way up the road and out of the village. It was Friday night, so everyone was out and about. After about 5k I came to a river ford, decided not to get wet feet just before bed (plan to cross in the morning in sandals before putting on shoes) so I free camped near the river it what I thought was a deserted area. Only after I started pitching my tent did the dogs at the house across the river put up a racket. Hope I can keep my low profile through the night.

Sep 10 day 10 KeriKeri to Opua 27 km 7:30-1:30

Wandered up the streets of KeriKeri before 7:00 and found a bake shop open, so started the morning with a sausage roll. It would be hard to be a vegetarian on this trail, as the quick, cheap, convenient food nearly always includes some sort of meat in a baked crust. As it was a long walk just to get out of town, I also got a McDonalds coffee– here they have a barista and do not sell drip. Walked past the Old Stone Store, an original building that’s pretty imposing, then through orange groves, with little honor boxes, selling kilo bags of oranges and lemons. It poured rain all day, but I was all rain-geared up and, except up on the ridges in the Waitangi Forest where the wind blew strong, it was warm enough. Much of the path was lined with gorse bushes, something I associate more with Winnie-the-Pooh than with NZ (though perhaps they were introduced to make the place more like England). When the wind blew lightly you could smell that tropical odor the gorse flowers make. Track was solid and fast, and I soon got to Waitangi, the place of the treaty. Tried to get a picture, but my phone was too wet to use. Wandered through Paihia, a happening place with lots of restaurants, but I pushed on to Opua, where tomorrow I take a boat over to Waikare and the beginning of the Russell Forest. The only motel in Opua was closed for repair, but Leah, the proprietor, opened us a room for me– everybody has been so great. Opua is a port town, with a large ferry dock, and marina. Wandered down in the evening to the yacht club who let a poor wandering landlubber join with the wandering sailors. Had steaming bowl of chowder while listening to 4 men who had made the crossing from Fiji in very foul weather, laying up in Opua as the closest safe port though eventually they need to make it back to the South Island. All were exhausted and energetically addressing themselves to their steak dinners. Looking forward to spending most of the day tomorrow lounging by the docks, waiting for high tide and the trip to Waikare.

Sep 9 day 9 Puketi Camp to KeriKeri 25 km 7:15-1:00

Hiked hard and fast, but was short, fairly easy day. The highlight was crossing a large set of pastures toward the end of lambing season. Most of the ewes had already lambed (most with twins) though some were about to. A lot of afterbirth in the fields, and I had to walk very circumspectly so as not to disturb the new ones. Arrived in KeriKeri, headed straight to the Holiday Camp to shower, shop and do laundry– all those domestic chores– and a night in a dry bed!

Sep 8 day 8 Apple Dam Camp to Puketi Camp 25 km 7:30 – 3:00

Finally a really beautiful day. Early part on a forest track past many Kauri Trees, and by mid-morning descended down an old atv track through the high rushes to the Mangapukuhukuhu Stream which I then hiked straight down the middle of it for about 3k. It was just like a scene out of The River Queen. Ended up at the Whakapaku River and had to wade across it. The most difficult part then was a track that went along the river for about 4k as it was slippery and in places non-existent. Eventually it climbed out of the valley and met up with another forest road, to a really nice DOC campsite with toilets, running water, etc. got there early enough to spread things out to dry in the sun. The hut was occupied by a detachment of NZ SAS soldiers training In the nearby jungle who made a lot of noise during the night but still, best day so far.

Sep 7 day 7 free camp on ridge to Apple Dam Camp 25 km 7:30-3:00

Woke to rain and cold, packed up quickly, put on wet clothes and headed out fast. The trail down to valley (5km) was ridiculous– standing water, looked like ponds in the middle of the trail. Soon I was completely soaked and covered in mud. Finally got to bottom which was a bit of hiking through pastures, still soupy mud, but clumps of grass to jump from tuft to tuft. Lots of cattle and horses, so things became more pleasant, if not more dry. Soon hit the Makune road and started hiking fast just to dry out and get warm. Got out the the main road and continued fast hiking up to Mangamuka Bridge, where there was Tip Top fast food and store. Had egg and bacon sandwich, coffee, chips, and just reveled in being inside. The woman who ran the place was so welcoming and asked me to sign the register. Two other thru hikers had signed for this season, though I am sure there are several more ahead. The afternoon hike to a simple campsite was beautiful, sun came up, and the trail was a forestry road, so no mud, and gradual altitude gain. The campsite was adequate, had water and a flat spot for tent but really boggy, and no late afternoon sun to dry things out. Still, things are looking up, getting used to the rain, and the word is that the trail on into KeriKeri is not so bad. Spent early evening relaxing in tent (still raining) and reading a bit.

Sep 6 day 6 Digger Valley Road to free camp on ridge 24 km 7:30-5:30

The second worst trail I have ever hiked.