Oct 5 day 35 Waitomo to Te Kuiti 16km 8:30-12:00

The campground had some revelers last night, my countrymen, who kept everyone up late. For once the sun was shining first thing in the morning and everything was relatively dry, just a faint dew. Was easy to smile. Decided to have a big breakfast before heading out, and got just that at the Morepork Cafe (Morepork is an owl). The hike over was beautiful, up and down pasture hills. The surface has dried out considerably, and for some reason, the cattle farmers have their cattle clustered in smaller fields, so the large pastures are not yet torn up. Also I wonder if the karst geology here helps it drain better. I don’t know why, but it was some good firm dry walking out there today. Arrived in Te Kuiti with the goal to find new shoes– circled the town in search of possibilities including two farmers supply stores. Decided gum boots were not a good substitute, neither were patent leather loafers, so I’m going to chance the next section with blown out shoes. Will take duct tape. Spent a quiet afternoon after the great shoe hunt just resting up. The next few days are going to be complicated as there is no camping for 60+ km and a lot of road walking. My solution is to stay here two nights. Arranged with Val, local transport driver to get picked up by her brother Al (yes, Val and Al– not many letters allowed in that family) at the end of tomorrow’s walk and be dropped back there first thing the next morning. Then I just have a big push that do to the next camping area. Not a cheap solution, but a solution nevertheless.

Oct 4 day 34 stealth site to Waitomo Campsites 32 km 7:00-3:00

Woke early and, even though it was Sunday, I started hiking right away so as not to get caught trespassing. I wanted to get to Waitomo, and so proceeded at a good pace. First part was a farm road which soon became a pasture road, which soon became a wet muddy trail that was not well marked. Slipped and slid a good bit. This area is not far from the western coast so it gets strong cold winds off the water. In the mist and fog, I missed one turn and ended up floundering around in a sheep pasture until backtracking to find the right way. Then because of some rerouting of the TA, and my lack of desire to once again dive into the mud, I followed the suggested road detour into Waitomo, arriving in time to pitch a tent at the campground, get a hot shower, and a good meal-the Huhu cafe served up a dinner as good as anything I have ever eaten, the side of Parmesan gnocchi was perfect. Plan a short day tomorrow into Te Kuiti where I hope there is a decent outfitters. Right on schedule –at 500 miles– my shoes have both blown out and I do not trust them for the next long stretch.

Oct 3 day 33 Kaniwhaniwha campsite to stealth site 26 km 8:45- 6:30

Physically a very hard day. Started out slow as I awoke to more rain on the tent and a louder rush of the Kaniwhaniwha stream (which on inspection, had risen considerably). I waited until there was a lull, then in full rain gear, struck camp and headed up the trail. The first few km were pleasant and beautiful, but then the climb came. Spent the morning gaining the elevation to get to the peak of Mount Pirongia which clocks in a 957 meters. I believe it is much taller than anything I have climbed thus far. The trail up was abysmal. The recent rain had turned what little soil there was into muddy soup, so I was climbing roots and mud all morning. The peak would have been beautiful were it not socked in by mist. Just past it, I had lunch at a very cool, brand-new DoC hut. The descent out was also pretty amazing as it was a km boardwalk to a lookout point. Then it got rough again, slipping and sliding down like an amusement park ride. I was not amused. Hit the bottom around 4:00 with no real possibility of camping in sight. In the USA, there tend to be edge lands–land not in economic use which can, in a pinch, serve as a place to pitch a tent. In NZ the farms all assert their status as private property (with plenty of forbidding signs) and they tend to fence right to the road. I walked a good 12 km after getting off the trail without seeing any place to try to pitch a tent. Ended up stealth camping on a forestry road that had been blocked off from the main road. Actually a nice place, though the rain had never really stopped so it was pretty damp. Cooked some ramen and went to sleep early and exhausted.

Oct 2 day 32 Hamilton to Kaniwhaniwha campsite 39 km 7:15-4:00

One thing Hamilton does well is footpaths. From the river walk I took yesterday into the city, to the westward path I followed this morning which, after it emerged from the line of panel-beater shops and equipment rental yards, took me up a beautiful lookout (Tills) and then through the Taitua arboretum which had a wonderful ancient trees section. Had a second breakfast at the Whatawhata village, good coffee and a place to rest tired feet. Much of the rest of the day was a lot of road walking to get to the Kaniwhaniwha stream and campsite. Made a lot of kilometers under kind skies, but they opened a half km from the site. Pitched tent fast, sat under the extended roof of the toilet building for a while waiting for the rain to subside, then cooked during a brief lull, and dove into the tent to listen to it pour all night long.

Oct 1 day 31 Ngaruawahia to Hamilton 21 km 9:30-2:00

Literally a walk in the park. Woke late, determined to enjoy the Arrow Motel bed as long as possible, then strolled out of Ngaruawahia on way to Hamilton. Ngaruawahia is an interesting town, apparently the home of some significant Maori leaders and important in their political structure. Really great place caught in the curve of the Waikato river next to an impressive mountain range (which I hiked yesterday). The walk down to Hamilton was first on the road but soon on a beautiful riverside bicycle path, past small parks, pretty houses, and lots of folks walking dogs or riding bicycles. Arrival in Hamilton put me in search of a hostel. I discovered it didn’t open just then, so had lunch and a pint out on a patio of The Helm with speakers blaring Fleetwood Mac. Thought I was either back in college or at a Clinton campaign rally. Checked into the hostel, Yvonne gave me the Atlanta Georgia Discount. Then I proceeded to work up my laundry, though I was in line behind one of my roommates, Wayne, who does not speak English as his first language and I think has not spent a lot of time on his own– had real difficulty with his laundry. Still, a good humored fellow. I then wandered downtown in search of a hat to replace my gorse-stolen New Zealand wild-man hat. Opted for a lightweight running hat– has brim, but not as hot as my previous oilskin topper. Hamilton has a city feel in that there are a lot of takeaway restaurants– they alternate Indian and Thai– some tall bank buildings, and a number of sex shops. Had a filling meal at “The Londoner,” an old-fashioned English pub with some good ales. Then wandered back to the hostel for a quiet evening of reading (Robert MacFarlane’s Landmarks) and an evening conversation with Daniel (a Kiwi in Hamilton taking a university course) and roommate Wayne (a Chinese man on his way to Australia for a new job). Much of the conversation was about the NZ University system, but we did discuss politics. It is disconcerting how aware they are of American politics (because there is often direct economic or political affect). They follow the candidates and take seriously their statements. Of course we are in the middle of the clown car season, with people who could not hope to govern well getting all the media attention. I find it sad that people on the other side of the world are taking seriously what most serious Americans are content to ignore.

Sep 30 day 30 Rangiriri to Ngaruawahia 34 km 7:00-4:00

So I broke my resolution to slow down a bit. Started morning in thick fog, wore my headlamp to be seen through the construction site, but after crossing the Waikota I was more or less in the country with a straight shot down to Huntly. Only in the afternoon, did things shift with a lot of climbing, some mud/root hiking along a ridge all afternoon. Later I could see Ngaruawahia in the valley by a bend in the river, just had to wait for the trail down, which turned out to be 1.5 km of steps. Never seen so many steps, and almost everyone climbing were women in exercise clothes who I don’t think thought much of my muddy hiking gear. Peaceful evening just relaxing sore stairstep knees. A good day, felt capable throughout. And this was the end of the first month with more than 750 km to show. One quarter of the way through.

Sep 29 day 29 Mercer to Rangiriri 25 km 9:15-3:15

Woke early, looked out on a cold, very foggy landscape, rolled over in my warm bed and slept more. After packing I went over to the Pokeno Bacon Diner. They serve filter coffee (first I’ve had since arriving) and lots of bacon dishes (including an English Bacon butty, ummmmm). Lingered over coffee and then set off down the road for Rangiriri, following my resolution to slow down a little bit. It was a river hike, so no slippery climbing, though I spent the better part of the day dodging cow piles and mud holes. All in all pretty walking by the river– birds, cattle. The occasional slightly aggressive herd made me call up my youthful skills developed chasing cattle in Shenandoah county. Arrival in Rangiriri was amid road construction and once again (like back at the Auckland Airport or through the forest harvest zone) I found myself improvising a route to the accommodation through a blockaded area. Was not arrested. Wandered the town (one commercial block) to discover a battle was fought here in the Maori Wars, with around 100 people killed, many of whom are buried in the cemetery, the settlers and soldiers in traditional marked graves, the Maori in a mass grave forming a hill in one part of the grounds. Wanted to get big feed on at the only pub, but because of the construction the water was shut off so I had to settle for a pint and a toasted sandwich.

Sep 28 day 28 stealth camp on Mangatawhiri track to Mercer 23 km 7:45-2:30

Slept well and long, but had a hard time getting cranked up for hike as the rain showers kept rolling through while I marveled at how well my tent kept me dry and comfortable. Also I was dreading the climb and the trail that would start the day. That part lived up to its billing, not much of a track at all, very slick with the new rain, and strewn with vines which catch my backpack and my toes. I knew I needed to make decent time to get water, but it was mud and root hiking, so I had to proceed cautiously. Had images of falling, breaking something, and not being found for weeks. Spent the a morning on ridges, lots of up and down, but as the day progressed, the trail got better, and I eventually found myself in a pasture with a stream running past. Got out the steripen and made up a couple of liters, then slogged through some pasture trails, following three milk cows who continued in front of me, dropping the occasional steamer, until I made it to the road– hungry, wet, and already tired. About 10 km on the road brought me to a dyke that looked like it belonged in the Netherlands. The land here has been dyked, ditched, and drained. The sun was shining, my stride had more spring, and I made my way across a flat, reclaimed area of farmland. Incidentally, the last two days are the first where I have seen deep plow farming. It had been grazing up until now. These fields are full of fall rapeseed. I got half-way across the dyke hike, smiling at the sun drying all the stuff on my back, when from nowhere along comes a hail storm, which ultimately got to pea-sized, then the lightening began to strike on either side, like an artillery detachment determining range, and there I was, the only elevated upright figure anywhere nearby. The thunder was accompanied by the honking clatter of swans– a pair of black ones in the river beside me who were unsettled by the crack and boom. One took flight, the muscular effort to raising that bulk so it was just skimming above the water, going up the narrow channel as if it were a landing strip.The weather settled it for me. I would make it a short day, stopping at the Mercer Motel and booking a hikers cabin (a wooden cubical). Later, when the sun came out, I spread out all my wet stuff to dry, and wandered over to the pub to get re-hydrated myself. There Sharon and her husband Podge made sure to introduce me to everyone who came in. In my quest to consume more calories, I had the pizza special– large thin crust with at least an inch of toppings– ham, pepperoni, peppers, more and more cheese. All I could do to finish it, washed down with bottles of Waikato Bitter, an appropriate choice since Mercer is located on the Waikato river.

Sep 27 day 27 Clevedon to stealth camp on Mangatawhiri track 31 km 9:00-6:00

What started out peaceful, turned pretty hard, though I really don’t know why. Slept in a little, plus the time changed, so I got a late start on both my time and clock time. Did have coffee at the Clevedon Cafe before hitting trail. Was nice easy warm up 7 km on gravel road gently sloping up, then a nice, but fairly muddy track along a river. About midday, the trail got very steep, muddy, slippery and slow. Stayed that way for a lot of the rest. Much of the day was looking out over two large reservoirs. Had lunch at a dam, and there met two DoC volunteers where were re-supplying the Kauri disinfectant stations– there is a disease hitting Kauris so there are shoe disinfectant stations at the entrances to trails running through kauri forests (I had not realized there were still kauri forests south of Auckland). Anyway, these guys stopped to chat, both sporting really long grey beards. Made me think if mine were longer, we could have started a ZZTop cover band. The road up from the dam was good, until I hit a forestry track that was listed as closed because of active logging, even though it was the only way through for the TA. None of the directions were clear– roads were listed the Te Araroa directions by name, but no names on any of the maps. It was Sunday, the logging trucks were not running, so I walked it anyway, which was fine until the heavy equipment rerouted it. That put me on a temporary bit of the TA, which was a lot of slogging. In all that mess I either missed the turn for the campsite Where I had planned to camp, or it has dissolved in lumber company mud. Whatever, I found myself past the point where the site was supposed to be, out of water, with night falling. Had to pitch tent in only flat spot– a little bit of the trail. I wasn’t worried about anyone coming by, as I was a long ways from everywhere. Water is a bit of a concern. Can’t cook anything, and obviously drink either. There is a river 6 km down the trail, so I just have a couple hours hike in morning to refill. Exhausted, went to sleep with the sun (actually the moon and then the rain).

Sep 26 day 26 Auckland Airport to campground at Clevedon Village 34 km 7:30-3:00

Slept in a bit, had coffee at Jamaica Blue– good coffee– then set out for what would be the most boring day almost (saved by the end). Had about 28 kilometers that was pretty much all sidewalk walking. The only bright spot was the middle of the day when the trail went through the Auckland Botanic Garden, and since it was Saturday, it seems to be dog day– dogs and their owners everywhere, was very cool. Made me miss Umbro so much. The walk did get prettier as the day progressed, further out into farmland. Horse training areas. The last 5 km was up and over a hill, and, wouldn’t you know, in the last two it turned to steep mud with gorse (and blood), then I came out at what I thought was a campground. Turned out to be a Cub Scout facility and they were having their clean-up day. The Warden offered me a bunk, shower, and sausages on the grill. I took the shower and a sausage, opted to set up tent, then ended up sitting in the sun with the volunteers drinking beer and listening to stories about life in the village, including a doctor who somehow accidentally let his sheep into the house, and an absent husband who, when drinking too much, was easily convinced to grab electric fences. Lots of laughter– more kiwi generosity. Set up tent, then headed to local pub for more beer and pizza, and an evening watching village life south of Auckland, very gratifying.