Walking Home

reveries of an amateur long-distance hiker

Day 51

October 21st, 2015

Oct 21 day 51 Wanganui 0 km

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Excellent morning, wandered downtown, stopped at a couple of coffee shops, got caught up on email and other messages, bought new shoes at Kathmandu (not a day too soon), visited the steamboat museum and wandered about a bit more. Great part of town near the river. The one restored boat, the Waimarie, was moored out back of the closed museum (they had multiple feet of water from the flood a few months back). The boat draws 2 feet, is powered by steam and used to go all the way up to Whakahoro. I have no idea how that was possible unless they did a lot of channel clearing. Today it cruises on the lower part of the river. Spent a long time this afternoon back at the Rutland Inn, slowly savoring a Lakeman Pale Ale and working on the Pennine Way book. Later I resupplied at the New World, dropped by the hostel and planned the next two days hikes. Returned to the Rutland to try their classic burger (highly recommended by both Leo and Remi). Like the burger, it was a classic zero day. Bring on the rest of the trail.

Day 50

October 20th, 2015

Oct 20 Day 50 Downes Hut to Wanganui 43 km 9:00-4:00 (by canoe)

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Started late as we had to coordinate with the tide near Wanagnui (did not want to get to that area before early afternoon when high tide would start slackening). Cool morning and wind picked up fairly soon. Early kilometers were still interesting as we needed to read the rapids, but by mid-day we were in deep, slow water. Yesterday’s long pull started to tell on me, as my arms were very tired and we were getting little assist from the current. The landscape also was changing rapidly, from the steep cliffs and sharp turns of the early parts of the river to more gentle hills. The banks were lined with sheep pasture, even on the steep areas, often with the the farm on the other side of the river. Several times we passed small float barges with pens, clearly designed to take sheep back and forth across the river: sheep ferries. The willow trees are leafed out now and fluff like cottonwood sometimes drifts across the river. By late afternoon were were both gassed and pleasantly surprised when our endpoint arrived (a Top 10 Holiday campground). Gavin told us to leave the canoe there, so we then geared up to walk the rest of the way into town. Then Keith the camp manager came by and, with that great Kiwi generosity that always surprises me, offered to drive us in. Got settled in hostel, did long overdue laundry, then I went I search of a good pub which I found, and of course sitting there were the two French men, Leo and Remi. We spent an evening talking about New Zealand hops, craft beer in southern France, and eating excellent pub food. Wonderful but exhausting day.

Day 49

October 20th, 2015

Oct 19 day 49 Tieke Kainga Hut to Downes Hut 60 km (by canoe) 7:45-4:30

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Had breakfast, said goodbye to our host Wai, and we got on the water early– hoping to make 60 km which would then put us in a good position to make Wanganui tomorrow. Across the morning we hit a series of rough, difficult rapids, where we shipped a lot of water, and, since I was in front today, I was soaked all morning. Fortunately we avoided capsizing when we were nearly swamped, and ultimately made it through the day shipshape. We even survived the 50/50 where as the name implies half the boats capsize. The afternoon got long and slower as the water slackened and the wind picked up. We worried we would pass the hut without seeing it, which as it turns out could easily happen as there was no visible signage or path up. We tracked it with GPS, located it, and made the muddy climb up to a simple but very nice hut. We were soon joined by two French men I had met at a coffee shop back in National Park. They too are on their way to Wanganui tomorrow. Talked a long while, primarily about equipment and food– they are looking for ways to reduce weight–really interesting guys. Long day for all of us so early to bed.

Day 48

October 20th, 2015

Oct 18 day 48 John Coull Hut to Tieke Kainga Hut 29 km (by canoe) 8:00-12:00

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Left fairly early in a misty rain. Temperatures cool but the river water not cold at all. Felt good to be early on the water, switched places so we both have motor and steering experience, handled some difficult rapids well and made excellent time. Had Cory not left his life jacket behind and were we not already booked at this campsite, we probably would have pushed on. Instead we unloaded at the camp, got some warm clothes, and crossed over to the “Bridge to Nowhere” Lodge and spent the afternoon out of the rain, drinking Tui’s and reading. The other guests there were four older women who wanted to go up to the bridge, but the rain brought them in instead. Fascinating women from Hamilton, one a computer scientist at Waikato University. Another lived right on the road I passed when walking out to the arboretum near Hamilton. When the news came on and began showing highlights of the All Blacks/France rugby match, they knew most of the players by name, where they had played club rugby, etc. very serious fans who explained lots of things to me. After the rain let up, we canoed back to our side and met Wai, the hut warden and matriarch of the Maori group who occupy the Marai where the DoC hut is located. She explained how DoC had built the hut there claiming that the land had been abandoned. Of course it had not and they re-established their sovereignty of the area. She then told of her son who has learned to navigate by the stars so he can travel around the world on the big Waka they built to help understand possible south sea migration patterns. She also explained why you must remove you shoes in Maori houses: you may have stepped on something sacred outside, and it would be inappropriate to bring it into domestic space. On language, she explained how it was dialect differences that did or did not pronounce the “wh” as “f”. Maori on the river actually just used “w” as in Wanganui. There was also a really nice German couple there touring the country — she is studying philosophy in order to become a secondary school teacher. Wai was leaving the next day and didn’t want to carry out food, so she made a massive mince stew which the four of us had some difficulty finishing, such generosity.

Day 47

October 20th, 2015

Oct 17 day 47 National Park to John Coull Hut 87 km (50 by car, 37 by canoe, 0 by walking) 8:00-3:00

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Back on the trail, sort of. Gavin from Yeti tours (along with noodleman and his sidekick) picked me and Cory up and drove us to Whakahoro Landing. The TA officially passes through there but does not start canoeing at that point; however, the trail to the next landing is closed because a bridge is out, so we started canoeing from there and made it to John Coull hut (37 km), where we set up tents and cooked. Cory and I had a good time canoeing, we work well together. Evening clouded up, but the rain held off. The hut had a lot of canoeists staying there, nice place but I’m glad I’m slept out in my tent (really like that tent– gentle rain much of the night). The hut warden is an older man, a volunteer who works there for about 2 weeks. We had a long talk, an 80 year old kiwi named Peter Young. Has four sons, used to take them down the river when they were young, and he agitated in the 80’s for national park status for the river. He has worked as a farm manager in the northlands, and as a ranger here. Fascinating gentle man who has seen so much in his life. Once again, another Kiwi aging gracefully. I crawled in my tent early to read John McPhee on Alaska, fell asleep as soon as the sun dipped down a bit.

Vital Heat

October 16th, 2015

Vital Heat

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In Coming into the Country, John McPhee offers a series of portraits of Alaskan backwoods men and women. One particularly striking character is Dick Cook, an able trapper who among other quirky traits disdains wool, wearing instead cotton, the one fabric every outdoor adviser warns against. We’ve all heard the phrase “cotton kills” because, once wet, it offers no warmth. Cook claims, “You have to worry more up here about overdressing than underdressing. The problem is getting overheated.” It is perhaps easy to dismiss his comment as Alaskan individualist bravado, but he also is calling attention to the delicate practice of thermoregulation in the big outdoors.

In the “Economy” chapter of Walden, Thoreau uses the phrase “vital heat” to describe the basics necessary to sustain life (or perhaps even to define life). He goes on to critique fine clothing and the fashion industry and, later, elaborate architecture. For him, clothes and houses exist to maintain heat/life, not to designate status. This is all part of his familiar plea to simplify and his broader critique of overly complex social relations. But, if you think a bit about being in the big outdoors over time–that is, to be like Dick Cook working all day outside and perhaps sleeping in a thin shelter at night–this notion of vital heat might be less an opportunity to tweak the noses of Thoreau’s fellow townspeople than it is his acknowledgment of a real and constant imperative which only creeps into conscious awareness outside sealed, climate-controlled spaces.

My experience the other day (detailed in my Te Araroa journal) attempting the Tongiriro Crossing is illustrative:

All advice is not to attempt [the crossing] in bad weather, and my morning started out cold (down at low elevation) and wet, though there were glimpses of sun, and the cloud cover did not look significantly different from a typical New Zealand morning, so off I set. My plan was to get up to the Ketatahi Hut which was about 18 km from the campground and a little over six from the car park. I figured to get there mid-morning and would then have a sense of how the weather would play out. If it stayed bad, I’d sleep in hut and wait for morning. The hike went well, long road walk followed by well-designed and maintained paths. As I emerged from the bush and started hiking the alpine tundra the temperature started to drop as I expected, and the wind picked up. I could smell the sulfur from the hot springs nearby. Still, I was well dressed in wind/rain gear, ready for what I thought would come. The trail has been rerouted a bit since I last hiked this track (I’ve already done this stretch twice before, but in summer weather), so I was not sure how close the hut was. The rain intensified and the wind soon got to gale force. It at times actually pushed me off the trail. The last kilometer or two were otherworldly– horizontal rain, freight train wind, and no clear end in sight. Then it appeared (not a moment too soon). The first thing I saw when I got to the door was the hut’s redesignation as a temporary shelter, not an overnight site any longer (because of a recent eruption– after all, this is a volcano hike). I went inside, stripped off wet clothes, and with shivering hands made an early lunch. As I did not get appreciably warmer–the wind by now was bashing the sides of the cabin– I spread out my sleeping bag on the table and crawled in which soon got my body temperature to a better range.

Here the great outdoors is threatening and heat is indeed vital. Its maintenance is something requiring anticipation, preparation, and self-awareness. I used all the elements Thoreau details for proper balance–food, clothing, shelter–but my getting to that level of understanding about vital heat was the result of a specific crisis. It is the day to day that tends to slip beneath notice but is perhaps what Thoreau is actually signaling through his discussion in Walden.

Dick Cook rejects wool clothing because of the expense, but also because he lives near Eagle, Alaska which happens to be in the driest part of the state. Places with high moisture and sharp temperature shifts require more deliberation. Even though I have a slight wool allergy (it itches a lot), that is what I wear on the trail. The main difference between merino wool and polypropylene (the other backpacker fabric of choice) is that wool is warmer, dries quicker, and–a perhaps aesthetic but still important difference–wool does not smell after a few days’ wearing (nothing reeks worse than polypropylene after a couple of sweaty days). But maintaining vital heat is not so much about the material as it is a set of practices in relation to your own body’s heat response. A typical hiking day for me: early mornings are usually cool, so I often start with long pants (I hike with zip-offs, so at a break I can easily convert to shorts). Unless it is raining, I usually wear a merino wool t-shirt, a heavier merino long-sleeve t-shirt, and start with a fleece. I keep in my pocket a thin merino skullcap, perhaps the handiest piece of clothing I have for thermoregulation. It only takes a little uphill hiking to get me out of the fleece. Once I reach hiking temperature, the subtle vital heat practices emerge. I sweat profusely when exerting myself, regardless of outside temperature, which is why I found McPhee’s discussion of Dick Cook telling. I soon find my undershirt soaked even if the rest of my body– hands and head– remain cold. Practice then includes putting the hat on and off, often in different ways (pulling it above or over my ears, or pulling it down over my temples). The same goes for my long sleeves, which I regularly pull away from my wrists, or back down over them. These adjustments continue throughout the day responding to terrain difficulty, altitude change, moisture, wind speed, and physical exertion.

Thoreau’s vital heat is initially not an abstraction to enable social critique, nor does it designate a passively stable system, even if our thermostats today invite us to believe that is the case. Rather, what he describes in “Economy” is a set of material gestures that dynamically unfold and constantly change over time, conditions demanding attention, care, and vigilance. Thoreau characteristically resists the quick leap from the material to the abstract or transcendental. Rather, he stays on the ground, in the weather, over time. Maintaining vital heat in the great outdoors demands living deliberately.

 

T. Hugh Crawford

Day 46

October 16th, 2015

Oct 16 day 46 National Park 0 km.

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Another zero at National Park, waiting for Cory to get his stuff organized. We should be on the river tomorrow. To get all that square, we have to skip the hike into Whakaporo Landing, which was mostly just a long road walk anyway. A little disappointed to be missing a part of the trail, but river/canoe logistics are complicated and this seems the best solution. It also gave me another day to wander from coffee to coffee trying to get some more writing done. I’m sure I needed the rest, but I am anxious to get back to hiking. Reminds me of Paula Constant’s books where she keeps getting anxious when she is not walking, thinking she will lose momentum. It does feel as though I need to get back in my tent far away from wifi and restaurants, which is all I feel like I’ve been doing the last few days.

Day 45

October 16th, 2015

Oct 15 day 45. National Park 0 km.

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Turns out I need to take a couple of unanticipated zero days to work out the river transportation. A large segment of the trail is impassable because of a collapsed bridge, so the best (only) strategy is to put in the water at Wades Landing and canoe all the way to Whanganui (about 160 km after a 50 km hike). I’ve been working with Gavin at Yeti tours, who is incredibly helpful and he connected me with Cory from Canada, a thruhiker I have been trailing for weeks. He arrived at National Park today, wants to zero tomorrow, so I’ll wait and hike out with him to Whakahoro where we meet up with Gavin and the canoes. Today was a good break for me– went to the Park Inn for breakfast, the Macrocarpa Cafe for coffee, and the train station for lunch. In that time, I polished up my opening chapter to the Pennine Way book, and sent it off to Granta. Here’s hoping they like it. This afternoon Cory came in, we got acquainted– interesting guy. The hostel is crowded with adventurers, people on gap years seeing the world, retired people on gap years seeing the world. There is a wonderful hum and buzz in the kitchen area while each prepare meals and talk about their day, plotting out the next. Such anticipation. Also met back up with Sophie and Pierre who just finished the Tongiriro Crossing, so it is old home week for the Te Araroa thruhikers. Just need Teddy, who is still back in Auckland. Spent late evening in Schnapps Bar with a German man who is working in Australia, a German woman mathematician, and a Portuguese engineer. All are touring around for a few months. Zero days can be strange–not just the lack of a backpack on my back, but also that weird insouciance that comes with skipping work. Long distance hiking becomes a job– not in the boring quotidian ways some jobs can become, rather the walking is what defines being, so not walking, or strolling in Tevas between places that have food and coffee seems the ultimate indulgence. Those who save their money to go to spas etc. miss out on real luxury. Breakfast seated in a chair with a back is more delicious than all the luxuries such places offer.

Day 44

October 16th, 2015

Oct 14 day 44 Whakapapa Campground to National Park 20 km 9:00-2:00

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Today was all about the trail. It was also about my usually wrong preconceptions. Here in the middle of the national park– Tongiriro/Ruapehu– are a large number of trails catering to an equally large number of tourists. I started this morning from Wakapapa Village on a trail that led to a hut and also to a campground not far from the other village serving the National Park– felicitously called the National Park Village. It was only a 20 km hike and I left (late as I had big breakfast) because I assumed (!) it would be like walking a sidewalk. Most of the trails around Tongiriro are graveled, 5 ft wide, with nary a root or mud hole. I left the village on such a trail, in a damp misty almost rain, winding through young forest with regularly spaced informative signs for the nature hikers. It was a bit cool, so I hiked with some pace and was rewarded in a short while with some beautiful walking across alpine bogs. The Pennine Way taught me to appreciate bog hiking, particularly on well-designed well-drained paths. The trail then led into beautiful scenes of Ruapehu (were it not for low lying clouds), including long stretches on boardwalks to reduce impact on fragile flora. Then came the moment when the trail split, one fork leading to Whakapapaiti Hut and the other to Mangahuia Camp. Although, like Robert Frost, both seemed equally inviting, clearly the direction to follow was the hut and not the camp (the latter went on to the National Park village, my destination). Immediately on turning, I found myself not on the bog but in it. Not since leaving Tan Hill on Pennine Way have I found myself is such a bog– no way to tell whether a step was on a tussock or ankle-deep in water or mud. Those conditions prevailed for the next 5 km. I have crossed streams before, but usually not lengthwise. The trail followed yesterday’s rain down the landscape, and I slipped and slid behind it. Eventually I came out at the road, and a short hour on brought me to the village, dry socks, a bed, and some hot food. Spent the rest of the afternoon trying to work out the logistics of traveling down the river to Wanganui

Day 43

October 14th, 2015

Oct 13 day 43 Tongiriro Holiday Campground to Whakapapa Campground 35 km (track official, not what happened) 7:15-2:00

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A day started in uncertainty. The Tongiriro Crossing involves some serious altitude, including the edge of the Red Crater at over 1800 meters. There is still snow up there. A lot of it. All advice is not to attempt in bad weather, and my morning started out cold (down at low elevation) and wet, though there were glimpses of sun, and the cloud cover did not look significantly different from a typical New Zealand morning, so off I set. My plan was to get up to the Ketatahi Hut which was about 18 km from the campground and a little over six from the car park. I figured to get there mid morning and would then have a sense of how the weather would play out. If it stayed bad, I’d sleep in hut and wait for morning. The hike went well, long road walk followed by well-designed and maintained paths. As I emerged from the bush and started hiking the alpine tundra the temperature started to drop as I expected, and the wind picked up. I could smell the sulfur from the hot springs nearby. Still, I was well dressed in wind/rain gear, ready for what I thought would come. The trail has been rerouted a bit since I last hiked this track (I’ve already done this stretch twice before, but in summer weather), so I was not sure how close the hut was. The rain intensified and the wind soon got to gale force. It at times actually pushed me off the trail. The last kilometer or two were otherworldly– horizontal rain, freight train wind, and no clear end in sight. Then it appeared (not a moment too soon). The first thing I saw when I got to the door was the hut’s redesignation as a temporary shelter, not an overnight site any longer (because of a recent eruption– after all, this is a volcano hike). I went inside, stripped off wet clothes, and with shivering hands made an early lunch. As I did not get appreciably warmer–the wind by now was bashing the sides of the cabin– I spread out my sleeping bag on the table and crawled in which soon got my body temperature to a better range. Soon the door opened and a French couple came in, also shivering in the cold. They just wanted to see the first blue lake which is a couple kilometers further. Eventually the man did go up, but his smarter partner stayed behind in shelter. Then some Department of Conservation people showed up to work on the hut, surprised to find anyone there in this weather and relieved that we had decided to return down the way we had come. I packed up, headed back into the maelstrom, and could feel the temperature creep up as the altitude decreased. In little over an hour, I was off the mountain and in the carpark (for a day’s actual hiking total of about 24 km), where I met Toby and Gabe, two English tourists who were considering the climb. They changed their mind on hearing my story. As a bonus, they offered to drive me around to Whakapapa Village, my destination anyway, so inclement weather kept me from summiting but, after a great deal of effort, I did end up where I was supposed to be. The rain continued hard all the rest of the day, very glad not to be up on the mountain. After doing laundry at the camp (more to get it all dry than clean) I went to treat myself to dinner at the Tongiriro Chateau, a grand place we usually visit for refreshments on the Georgia Tech Taupo trip, so it was familiar ground. They have a large, old fashioned lounge for high tea, and it was filled with a mass of seniors who were on a north island train tour. All kiwis, voluble, funny, delightful. The kind of people who give aging a good name. This morning, while I was hiking back down the mountain, I thought about Thoreau in The Maine Woods where he climbed Katahdin, though, as most claim, he did not achieve the summit. His description of the mountain is some of his best writing, but I was thinking about how to him Katahdin was a cloud machine, making its own weather world. He did not end up posing at the top for pictures the way Appalachian Trail thruhikers do today, but he experienced the mountain in a number of its weather cycles and in its fury. His was a successful climb, as was mine.