Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 3 May 13, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 3 May 13, 2022 Much as I like to celebrate life on the open road, some days fall into the category “no fun.” I’ve already heard the term “Scottish weather” countless times, but today even the most grizzled Scot owned it was some wind. Guess I should have been suspicious […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 2 May 12, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 2 May 12, 2022 When hiking the Appalachian trail, I tended to obsess over wet feet (an unfortunate obsession to have, particularly in Vermont). The trail is so brutal, it beats your feet to death, so factors like wet feet can exacerbate an already fragile constitution. On New Zealand’s Te […]
Walking to Cape Wrath Day 1, May 11, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath day 1, May 11, 2022 In 2014 I walked the Pennine Way, finishing at Kirk Yetholm just across the Scottish border. What I remembered most about that hike was wandering the Yorkshire Dales and the crazy weather up on the ridges, but the last part was in the Cheviots, a different […]
Career
Career The northern parts of Benton Mackaye Trail prior to entering the Great Smoky Mountain National Park generally consist of thin, overgrown paths—steep, rutted, rooted, wet, rocky, and usually devoid of other humans (plenty of nonhumans though). Solitude in those circumstances is not contemplative. Instead each step must be taken with care and precision, a […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 20
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 20, June 17 Pole Road Campsite (55) to Bryson City The day opened in reluctance. I knew I had a 13 mile walk out to get to the road to hitch to Cherokee NC, so it wasn’t a simple stroll, though it was the end of a very long […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 19
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 19, June 16 Chambers Creek (#98) — Pole Road Campsite (55) 22.5 miles Right up to the end, a perfect hiking day. I remember moment in Earl Shaffer’s Walking with Spring when he describes how he hit a point where he ate twice what he had been eating. Long […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 18
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 18, June 15 Procter Fields (#86) — Chambers Creek (#98) 15 miles The humidity dropped, so apart from some general malaise (just feel like I’m running out of gas), today’s walk was excellent. Relatively steady altitude with sweeping curves up into the coves, rock hopping a spring or stream, […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 17
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 17, June 14 Fontana Shelter — Procter Fields (#86) 12 miles The Smoky Mountain Park service requires permits and a specific itinerary. To finish by Saturday, I need to walk 15+ days, but filling out the form, I dropped five from first day, so my day was as pleasant […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 16
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 16, June 13 Old Road Bed —Fontana Village—Fontana Shelter 12.7 miles Except for the lack of water, the old road bed was a good campsite. My tent was pitched so I could watch the sun go down, and a light breeze made for good sleeping. I was up early […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 15
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 15, June 12 Bobs Bald to Old Road Bed 13 miles Yesterday evening it looked for a moment that the sun might finally break through the fog, but instead the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. Shivering, I had to shelter early in my tent, digging deep into […]