On Boredom
On Boredom A scene from Gus Van Sant’s film Gerry is a three and a half minute tracking shot of the profiles of the two main characters, both named Gerry, in tight focus as they trudge across a vast and empty desert. While the audience might marvel at the technical virtuosity, they also feel and […]
On Adventure
On Adventure On a rest day in Ullapool, when hiking the Scottish National Trail, I found myself talking with a man clearly familiar with outdoor life in the Highlands. He had been in the same hostel bunk room as me the night before but had gotten up very early, I presumed because he was off […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 35, June 14, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 35, June 14, 2022 The ends of long trails usually have a certain drama, none perhaps more than the obligatory Katahdin sign pose at the end of the Appalachian Trail. The Te Araroa begins with a lighthouse at Cape Reinga but ends at a less impressive signpost at Bluff. The […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 34 June 13, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 34 June 13, 2022 Weather remained dismal so I met my fishermen friends for breakfast in Kylesku and later went with them to Rhiconish. In our conversation it became clear they had a deep understanding of the history of the area derived from their on-the-ground (or in-the-river) experiences of place. […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 33, June 12, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 33, June 12, 2022 Yesterday’s many crossings in heavy mist veiled a bit my awareness of a significant change in the overall terrain (though the rocks and my feet made me acutely if unconsciously aware of it). This glacial nature of landscape, the earth’s skin is scraped raw, exposing boulders […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 32, June 11, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 32, June 11, 2022 The weather predictions for the next few days were foreboding and, given my experience earlier in the trek, I discounted the severity of what was to come. The first few weeks every day they called for rain, but usually it was just scattered showers, no need […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 31, June 10, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 31, June 10, 2022 Loosing track of the days of the week is definitely a phenomenon up here. The midday isolation is always total, so it’s hard to get a sense of where the people living here are in their week. The main cue of course is trying to book […]
(Untitled)
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 30, June 9, 2022 ZERO day in Ullapool. Woke to a large cruise liner moored in the harbor, so town (the village) is a bit more crowded than before. The hostel here is well-appointed and well-run. My bunk room had 6 middle aged men from six different counties, and I […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 28, June 7, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 28, June 7, 2022 Today was a rhythm day— one where at different stages I found myself in a particular walking mode. Just out of Kinlochewe started as a long land rover road walk, a beautiful glen, passing some abandoned houses, but also an amazing modern one, shaped like the […]
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 27, June 6, 2022
Walking to Cape Wrath, Day 27, June 6, 2022 A zero day (did not walk except from the campground to the service station/ cafe then to the Kinlochewe hotel). Had breakfast at the cafe run by wonderful people with a nice set-up and great sausage and bacon buns. As usual with people in this country, […]