May 13-14

A Coruna
Now fully in tourist mode, travelled by train to A Coruna, up on the Galician coast to see the ocean but also hear Guadi Galego sing. The weather continues to be Galician sunshine (a constant light rain) but there is something magical about A Coruna. A city bounded by water, a very long history, and subject to very wet weather, the people are incredible– always smiling and helpful. Seems a cliche, but just a fact. Ate twice in an amazing Jamonaria, specializing in old iberica ham (with many hanging from the ceilings) and serving amazing pimientos de padrones — grilled salted small green peppers. The tower of Hercules is an operating lighthouse with much of the same structure built by the Romans in the first century. Was eerie to climb steps and look at a structure that old. Guadi Galego and her band put on an beautiful show. All the songs were in Galician, so I definitely did not understand a word, but the music was amazing. The only mistake was in no checking the soccer schedule as Real Madrid played Coruna Saturday afternoon– would have been fun to see even if the home team lost.

T. Hugh Crawford