Sep 19 day 19 Pakiri Camp to Dome Cafe (Highway 1) 26 km 6:45-4:00
The most physically rigorous day since the Raetea Forest. Started out walking straight up a steep pasture– no trail, just knee high grass and the occasional post painted white at the top. Finally got to the top, great views but completely soaked. Followed a fence line up and down with mud so deep, it sucked your shoes off. Path was narrow and crowded by gorse which at some point tore off my hat which was hooked to my pack (I was not about to go back to look for it). It’s cute when Pooh or Tigger fall into the gorse, they don’t bleed. The rest of the day was mud and root hiking, lots of elevation change, some good views but also much rain. High point was the end when I got to the Dome Cafe by four — it closes at five– had an early dinner and a couple Macs lagers which tasted exactly like the beer Dad used to drink when I was a kid. They comped me some fries, then gave me a ride to the “sheeps world” camp ground– a place straight out of some weird reality show. Was cold and wet so I opted for bunk, which turned out to be in an old caravan– was cool, sort of. Tomorrow not looking easy but not as bad as today. Gunna sleep well tonight.
Day 25
Sep 25 day 25 Auckland to Auckland Airport 33 km 8:15-3:30 My sense is that the TA route through Auckland was designed on a dart board, but I did get to climb Mt. Eden and One Tree Hill, walk through some cool neighborhoods, and finally out to the airport– not your most scenic place. Finally […]
Day 24
Sep 24 day 24 Auckland 0 km, Zero Day A day much like yesterday. Had to check out of the YHA hostel as they were booked, but found a luxury hotel room just down the block for the same cost. Hotels.com came through on that. And Ubertec also delivered, getting my new phone in and […]
Footpaths
Footpaths First writing is done by feet. When we walk, we make marks and we make meaning. A path is deep writing. It is a material surface that over time becomes worn and accommodating, but it is also indexical, pointing out a direction–actually two. In addition, paths are communal: formed and maintained by community while at […]
Day 23
Sep 23 day 23 Auckland 0 km, Zero Day Was strange waking and not walking. Instead I strolled to a coffee shop for a day of healing and rest. Given all the isolation of the last weeks, for some reason, I still want quiet and privacy here. Just peace without motion. I’ve started to put […]
Day 22
Sep 22 day 22 Stillwater to Auckland YHA 33 km 6:15- 4:00 So at 7:09 this morning I was trying to ford the Okura River. I did everything right– arrived at the ford point at exactly low tide, tried 4 different places. Each time I’d get about 20 meters out and the water would get […]
Day 21
Sep 21 day 21 Puhoi to Stillwater. 32 km 8:00-3:30 (because of high tides, some road walking probably shortened the actual distance) Today started with another generous act. Two days ago, when I stopped at the Dome Cafe for an early dinner, wet, covered in mud, I ordered food and a beer. When the woman […]
Day 20
Sep 20 day 20 dome Cafe to Puhoi 27 km 8:30-3:00 Got a bit of a late start because I walked up from the Sheep World Campgrounds, to the Dome Cafe for another meal and some great conversation with the couple who run it. Both so kind and peaceful. Had delicious Eggs Benedict and coffee […]
Day 18
Sep 18 day 18 Mangawhai Village to Pakiri Camp 23 km 7:45-1:00 Short day, resting for what looks to be a difficult couple of days ahead. Pretty much a two surface hike–road to beach, then beach to the end (a brief up and over a point at Te Arai). Started out in the pouring rain, […]
Day 17
Sep 17 day 17 Waipu Cove to Mangawhai Village (Mangawhai Camp) 28 km 7:30-2:30 Very straightforward day. Woke to clear blue skies, got on trail fairly early, had to backtrack to the turn which took me up through a subdivision. They are building lots of upscale houses on the ridges overlooking the bays and islands. […]