Walking Home

reveries of an amateur long-distance hiker

Day 25

September 30th, 2015

Sep 25 day 25 Auckland to Auckland Airport 33 km 8:15-3:30

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My sense is that the TA route through Auckland was designed on a dart board, but I did get to climb Mt. Eden and One Tree Hill, walk through some cool neighborhoods, and finally out to the airport– not your most scenic place. Finally tomorrow I should get back out in the country. Walking in the city is odd– of course I’m out of place with my pack (though there are plenty of students with massive packs traveling about). Walking on the sidewalk, dodging people, waiting for lights, stopping for coffee, constantly consulting maps to be sure I’m on the correct road. All in all, a strange way to be hiking. Have a long stretch before the next real re-supply, so went to grocery and will be carrying a load tomorrow. The airport area was actually ok when I got there. Had to book hotel, but found one cheap, had a great meal in a crowded restaurant– not sure where all the people come from as its not in the airport and the hotel wasn’t full. Still, was a pleasant evening saying goodbye to urban life for a while.

Day 24

September 30th, 2015

Sep 24 day 24 Auckland 0 km, Zero Day

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A day much like yesterday. Had to check out of the YHA hostel as they were booked, but found a luxury hotel room just down the block for the same cost. Hotels.com came through on that. And Ubertec also delivered, getting my new phone in and set up by noon. The sun finally came out, so I spent early afternoon strolling down by the docks, then over to the Shakespear Brewery for a celebratory IPA (the first really good beer I’ve had so far). Then back to the hotel for a few hours downloading apps, maps, and other stuff to make my phone a functional navigation device. It’s pretty stripped down for now, but its main purpose is to be sure I’m on the right path. There was a scale in the hotel, down to about 181 lbs, so I went to one of those Asian all-you-can-eat meat barbecue places and played the glutton.

Footpaths

September 23rd, 2015

Footpaths

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First writing is done by feet. When we walk, we make marks and we make meaning. A path is deep writing. It is a material surface that over time becomes worn and accommodating, but it is also indexical, pointing out a direction–actually two. In addition, paths are communal: formed and maintained by community while at the same time forming and maintaining those very communities. They enable movement and embody memory. For children, at least those who are able to experience childhood outdoors (not on flooring, pavement or artificial turf), paths are possibility. Each day they start yet another adventure. Their windings are a wild writing, leading not to places of labor or commerce, but instead to the hidden which is also the imaginative.

Writing takes many forms, but the classic scene is a steel-nibbed pen scratching the surface of thick paper with the ink leaving a dark line modulated by the faintest lateral threads, liquid drawn out infinitesimally by capillary action of the paper’s fibers. The direction of the mark is, at a glance, obvious, but the possibilities of divergence are framed by those faint lateral marks. Drawn lines and footpaths–diagrams–have direction, but like their childlike wild counterparts also signal other possibilities.

Footpaths and words can take you places or get you lost, which is just a word for a place unknown. Through use, paths enforce a certain directionality. They are habituated to the feet that speak their direction, discourage divergence, dampen wildness. Even walking in blankness is all about making and possibly following marks. Ninety Mile Beach is flat, often 30+ meters wide, and can be walked comfortably anywhere in a wide section, but I still found myself following paths defined by earlier walkers or car tracks. On other beaches (I’ve followed many a beach track on the Te Araroa which is Maori for “The Long Path”) where the sand is often too soft to walk, my feet seek out a thin trace of shells that form a tide line and mark out firm footing. But paths are not just directors, they can be aesthetic, as in Richard Long’s famous 1967 “Line Made by Walking.” They remember passersby, and, for example, express grief as in Rider’s walk down his dead wife Mannie’s weekly pathway in William Faulkner’s “Pantaloon in Black,” or they express and embody love, lovingly demonstrated in Eudora Welty’s “Worn Path” or the footpath of my own youth which led through an orchard to a girlfriend’s house.

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On the other hand, a long-distance footpath must be precisely legible, so they tend to be multimediated. There is, of course the path itself, the reminder of where to step, step by step. Long-distance trails are, almost by definition, unfamiliar. The childlike pleasure of the wild path is, in long-distance hiking, overwhelmed by uncertainty and the physically high stakes of mistakes. A wrong turn can take the trekker many miles from intention. When crossed by another path, the trail needs further indication, often supplied by signs (made of wood or other ponderous material, but which can still be taken as wonders). Theirs is a writing that supplements the first pathwriting. Trail anxiety is also alleviated by other visual marks, usually some form of blazing. On the Appalachian Trail, these are white vertical rectangles (approximately 2 1/2″ x 6″) painted on a tree or rock, usually at eye height. Change in direction is signaled by the turn of the path itself, and reinforced by double blazes, often slightly staggered to indicate direction. In addition, the AT has blue blazes which point out secondary or supplementary trails, usually those which cannot be recognized by the differential width and wear of the path itself.

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The Te Araroa is blazed by orange plastic triangles nailed to trees and posts at something that approaches eye height. Change in direction is indicated by doubling the blazes but also by tipping the triangle in that direction. Such indices are important on the TA, not just to alleviate anxiety, but also to embody the path which often, particularly in the Northland, can be more-or-less non-existent. In steep areas of, for example, the Herekino Forest, the slope can be completely washed out, giving no indication from the ground where to put feet. There the orange triangles become the path. But blazes also transform the experience of the pathway, moving it from feet and downcast eyes to scanning vision at human height, something that seems unimportant but is nevertheless phenomenologically significant.

Even with paths and blazes, it is still easy to lose trail direction. Often in the deep bush there is that heartsinking moment when you realize you have lost the trail. Usually, rather than returning to the last meaningful place (obvious path or blaze), a slight change in perspective, a simple shifting of head and eyes, reveals the obvious–Oh, there it is! Further mediation often takes the form of maps, usually topographical but also terrain profiles. I found that the Appalachian Trail itself was so well-worn and well-blazed that traditional topo maps were not necessary, though profile maps were useful in gauging the overall difficulty of the day. The most recent media form to layer over these others is GPS, which on smart phones takes the form of many useful apps that can obviate the need for all other writing except the path itself, which remains, as always, the first writing.

In a somewhat neglected essay, “The Biology of Cognition,” Humberto Maturana makes a distinction between connotative and denotative language. He does not appeal to traditional definitions of these terms, instead using “denotative” to mean the careful representation of concepts or ideas (in spoken or written language) to another person– almost like tokens passed from one person to another. In his schema, “connotative” then means the use of language to orient interlocutors to each other. When I ask someone how they are, I really do not expect bits of information about their health or financial status, nor am I directly interested in their mood. Rather, I am initiating an interaction where our mutual interests and concerns might in some way become aligned.

Maturana goes on to imply (as I recall) that a majority of language use is connotative, seeking orientation. Humans and other animals, fish, birds, insects, and microbes all orient themselves to each other through pathwriting. It is impossible not to marvel at the subtle communication within a formation of birds whose wings write currents in the air, leading those who follow to shift ever so slightly direction and speed. In Moby-Dick, Melville describes with fascination the watery paths leviathans follow in their migrations. Paths may not be denotative unless they are part of a highly ritualized set of symbolic gestures (e.g., The Stations of the Cross), but without doubt, they are connotative, serving to orient all motile beings to each other, their umwelt, livelihood, and selves. The hills of New Zealand are an intricate patterning of lines, a corduroy of paths and ledges made by generations of cattle and sheep, all finding a home in a steep and difficult place.

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Footpaths and writing often come together (witness Wordsworth), and paths can be a model for thought, from Gerald Edelman’s notion of neural pathways to Martin Heidegger’s holzwege. The latter saw the path as thinking itself. One was never in a particular place or thought, but instead was always on the way toward it. To write is first and foremost to experience the open. To be on a footpath is never to arrive.

 

T. Hugh Crawford

Day 23

September 23rd, 2015

Sep 23 day 23 Auckland 0 km, Zero Day

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Was strange waking and not walking. Instead I strolled to a coffee shop for a day of healing and rest. Given all the isolation of the last weeks, for some reason, I still want quiet and privacy here. Just peace without motion. I’ve started to put sugar in my coffee, I think in an attempt to take in more calories– not sure how much weight I’ve dropped, but it is a fair amount already, so today is a day of high calorie meals. Started cold with clouds and rain, but the sun kept trying to come out. In many ways, I did not care. My day was to be spent in the great indoors, but still, the possibility of relaxing in the warm sun was alluring. Of course my peace was interrupted by technology failure. My iPhone died. Fortunately it was under warranty and I was in a city that could replace it, but it did require a hike over to the repair place and at least another day here waiting for replacement. Well, if it was going to fail, I’m glad it did now and not out in the bush three weeks from a city.

Day 22

September 23rd, 2015

Sep 22 day 22 Stillwater to Auckland YHA 33 km 6:15- 4:00

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So at 7:09 this morning I was trying to ford the Okura River. I did everything right– arrived at the ford point at exactly low tide, tried 4 different places. Each time I’d get about 20 meters out and the water would get to my ribs (and the bottom of my backpack) and the river bottom would go soft — really muddy. Had to turn back each time, so finally gave up, and took the long walk around through the Okura Forest track, which goes through a fairly young Kauri grove along with lots of other magnificent trees, and lots of Tui’s (the birds, not the beers). Much of the rest of the day was spent working back to the coast through the suburbs. I changed from my wet clothes, but of course my shoes were soaked, so that 33 km beat my feet up. The sun would shine for about ten minutes, then it would rain again. Finally got down to Devonport, which is a really great town, and caught the ferry over to Auckland just as it was leaving. The hostel was just up Queen street, but walking there was disorienting. Surrounded by people talking — chattering– after all that solitude was hard to deal with. Hostel is nice, finally got some laundry done, whew, it reeked. Did not realize how tired I really was until I went out for a big bowl of noodle soup, then planned to find a bar, a beer, and maybe a televised rugby game. Ended up crawling into bed very early watching Colbert and Oliver clips before a deep a dreamless sleep.

Day 21

September 23rd, 2015

Sep 21 day 21 Puhoi to Stillwater. 32 km 8:00-3:30 (because of high tides, some road walking probably shortened the actual distance)

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Today started with another generous act. Two days ago, when I stopped at the Dome Cafe for an early dinner, wet, covered in mud, I ordered food and a beer. When the woman who ran the place brought it, she asked if I wanted any chips (in New Zealand, chips are a large bowl of hot, thick-cut fries). I smiled and said sure, and, even though it was obviously a slow day, she just gave them to me. Last night at the bar, I ordered a Tui’s and the manager charged me 6$. When I ordered the next, the bar tender charged 5$. I asked and he said 5$ was enough. Then this morning, I stopped at the Puhoi General Store and Cafe for a cup of coffee before hiking. It was a cold morning, and while I was sitting outside, the woman running the cafe came out with a large, hot croissant with tomato, ham and cheese. She said I looked cold, and refused payment. And tonight, because I was hiking the long trail, Pete– the camp owner– refused payment and let me sleep in the camp TV room (though the only thing on were game shows). This is often a kind and generous country. The day’s hike was, on the other hand, uninteresting. The tides were high so I was forced up on the roads most of the day. It was pretty much a day of walking on the shoulders of roads dodging ongoing cars. Initially I was just going to go 18 km to a campground at the southern tip of Orewa, but I got there before noon, so decided to trust luck in finding a place to pitch my tent in Stillwater. Lucked out as there is a campground right at the entrance to the next part of the hike. The whole place is pretty empty, but a warm dry place to sleep before the big push toward Auckland tomorrow.

Day 20

September 20th, 2015

Sep 20 day 20 dome Cafe to Puhoi 27 km 8:30-3:00

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Got a bit of a late start because I walked up from the Sheep World Campgrounds, to the Dome Cafe for another meal and some great conversation with the couple who run it. Both so kind and peaceful. Had delicious Eggs Benedict and coffee before pulling on my wet muddy shoes for another day’s slog. Even though it rained off and on, it was a good day. Not much road walking, but a lot of old forest roads that were well drained, so only a few kilometers of slipping and sliding. Pretty uneventful walk, but a wonderful ending. 11 or 12 years ago I was driving (with the family) from Whangerai back to Auckland. It was lunch time so we pulled off at this little village that had a beautiful pub by a river with a large green lawn. I remember thinking that it was a nearly perfect place. You can imagine how my dampened spirits rose when I came down off the hill, crossed the bridge and realized that I was in the same place. Walked into the pub in the midst of the Sunday dinner rush, and Amigo (the manager) looked up and said of course they had a room for me. I was soon unpacked, showered, and seated near a fire tucking into a great hot dinner. The place is still nearly perfect.

Day 19

September 20th, 2015

Sep 19 day 19 Pakiri Camp to Dome Cafe (Highway 1) 26 km 6:45-4:00

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The most physically rigorous day since the Raetea Forest. Started out walking straight up a steep pasture– no trail, just knee high grass and the occasional post painted white at the top. Finally got to the top, great views but completely soaked. Followed a fence line up and down with mud so deep, it sucked your shoes off. Path was narrow and crowded by gorse which at some point tore off my hat which was hooked to my pack (I was not about to go back to look for it). It’s cute when Pooh or Tigger fall into the gorse, they don’t bleed. The rest of the day was mud and root hiking, lots of elevation change, some good views but also much rain. High point was the end when I got to the Dome Cafe by four — it closes at five– had an early dinner and a couple Macs lagers which tasted exactly like the beer Dad used to drink when I was a kid. They comped me some fries, then gave me a ride to the “sheeps world” camp ground– a place straight out of some weird reality show. Was cold and wet so I opted for bunk, which turned out to be in an old caravan– was cool, sort of. Tomorrow not looking easy but not as bad as today. Gunna sleep well tonight.

Day 18

September 20th, 2015

Sep 18 day 18 Mangawhai Village to Pakiri Camp 23 km 7:45-1:00

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Short day, resting for what looks to be a difficult couple of days ahead. Pretty much a two surface hike–road to beach, then beach to the end (a brief up and over a point at Te Arai). Started out in the pouring rain, though it does not much bother me when starting out if I’ve got a pack cover, rain pants, and coat deployed from the start. Met two other thruhikers– Pierre and Sophie who were camped at Te Arai and who later stayed at the Holiday Camp. Minimal excitement on this track except having to ford three rivers, each mid-thigh deep. It takes a bit to find a good spot to cross. The water is not always clear enough to acertain depth. On getting to the middle and largest river, I found a woman, A—– on the other side. She was checking the DOC pest traps and also monitoring bird nesting habits. She kicked off her boots, dropped her pants, and waded out in just her knickers, noting on crossing that the water did not get to her crotch. Had a good talk about the nesting of the Oyster Catchers, and the problems of motorbikes on the dunes. The rest of the trek was just more beach–beautiful but monotonous after a bit. Stopped in early at the Pakiri Camoground, made for a short day, but got clean and dry, missed a large afternoon shower. Tomorrow the hills will be mud, a difficult challenge.

Day 17

September 20th, 2015

Sep 17 day 17 Waipu Cove to Mangawhai Village (Mangawhai Camp) 28 km 7:30-2:30

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Very straightforward day. Woke to clear blue skies, got on trail fairly early, had to backtrack to the turn which took me up through a subdivision. They are building lots of upscale houses on the ridges overlooking the bays and islands. After a while, the road turned to gravel and I entered an area being logged off, soon coming up on one of those large winching machines they put at ridge tops to pull whole trees up the hill from the ridges where they have been cut out by chainsaws. It was exactly like the Stamper operation in the film version of Ken Kesey’s Sometimes a Great Notion. I had to stop a while just to watch the sheer force being deployed to harvest trees is such difficult terrain. The track then rose up to follow a ridge line with occasional great views of the bays one either side of the head, before descending to a road and then back up a farm track to the edge of the coast. One amazing thing about farmscapes here is that Calla Lilies bloom in clumps all over the pastures near streams or pools. The track then turned to follow the coastal cliff down to Mangawhai Heads, which included a short bit hiking on the beach (seems requisite on this part of the trek). Got lunch and a great smoothie made of some NZ fruit at the Heads before crossing into Mangawhai village and pitching my tent at the campground. The campgrounds here can be interesting. Talked a while to Mike, the manager, who explained that the 68 lots in this one were sold off, and the owners park caravans or build cabins to rent or to live in. I am pitched in a little green bit of lawn between a couple of occupied cabins– my tent is quite a contrast. Strolled into town to the Smashed Pipi Gallery and Bar to have beer and pizza, something I’ve been craving. Talked a while with the outgoing manager– it was his last night running the place– about how peaceful living in this area is, unlike Auckland which is not so far down the road these days.