Career
Career The northern parts of Benton Mackaye Trail prior to entering the Great Smoky Mountain National Park generally consist of thin, overgrown paths—steep, rutted, rooted, wet, rocky, and usually devoid of other humans (plenty of nonhumans though). Solitude in those circumstances is not contemplative. Instead each step must be taken with care and precision, a […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 20
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 20, June 17 Pole Road Campsite (55) to Bryson City The day opened in reluctance. I knew I had a 13 mile walk out to get to the road to hitch to Cherokee NC, so it wasn’t a simple stroll, though it was the end of a very long […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 19
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 19, June 16 Chambers Creek (#98) — Pole Road Campsite (55) 22.5 miles Right up to the end, a perfect hiking day. I remember moment in Earl Shaffer’s Walking with Spring when he describes how he hit a point where he ate twice what he had been eating. Long […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 18
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 18, June 15 Procter Fields (#86) — Chambers Creek (#98) 15 miles The humidity dropped, so apart from some general malaise (just feel like I’m running out of gas), today’s walk was excellent. Relatively steady altitude with sweeping curves up into the coves, rock hopping a spring or stream, […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 17
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 17, June 14 Fontana Shelter — Procter Fields (#86) 12 miles The Smoky Mountain Park service requires permits and a specific itinerary. To finish by Saturday, I need to walk 15+ days, but filling out the form, I dropped five from first day, so my day was as pleasant […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 16
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 16, June 13 Old Road Bed —Fontana Village—Fontana Shelter 12.7 miles Except for the lack of water, the old road bed was a good campsite. My tent was pitched so I could watch the sun go down, and a light breeze made for good sleeping. I was up early […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 15
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 15, June 12 Bobs Bald to Old Road Bed 13 miles Yesterday evening it looked for a moment that the sun might finally break through the fog, but instead the wind picked up and the temperature dropped. Shivering, I had to shelter early in my tent, digging deep into […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 14
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 14, June 11 Tellico Plains/River to Bobs Bald 15.4 miles Except for the last two miles, I couldn’t have had a better trail for the day’s conditions. Misty rainy all day very little visibility—walking across on of the numerous balds in these ranges, the fog obscured my view of […]
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 12-13
Walking to the Smoky Mountains, Day 12-13, June 9-10 Zero Days at Tellico Plains Tellico Plains is a small town with a big heart, and none are bigger than Lance and Cheryl’s, the proprietors of Trout Mountain Cafe and Inn. After arriving I soon realized either I take some time to heal up, or I’d […]
Mediating a Mountain
Mediating a Mountain—some thoughts on Nan Shepherd and Elise Wortley After some years of exploring nature writing through actual material practices (e.g., that time we framed up Thoreau’s house using only the tools he could have used “Building Thoreau’s House”), I was gratified to read Robert Macfarlane’s The Old Ways where he encountered Edward Thomas’s […]